Display cases, as distinct from my athletic-jersey cases, shadow boxes, and specialized cases, (for memorial flags, golf / base balls, Barbie dolls  etc.), are best approached as a custom item.  I can, for example, make these cases to match my drawer cases. Or I can work from whatever dimensions you need. 

If you have drawer cases –or are getting yourself some- you will probably begin with drawer cases on the floor, and then add display cases to the wall above.  Two ways to go about this:

Just a few special cases to really highlight your very best stuff.

In either case, you might find it helpful to print out my cut & paste worksheet to design your home-museum.™  The table below applies to my display cases that are sized to match my drawer cases.  It lists some of the data you might need.  You will need to measure both your collectable items and the wall in your home.   

Various other decisions / options attain.  The most obvious one is to decide about the size and placement of the cases.  I offer a cut & paste worksheet to help you in this direction.  Click on my Cut and Paste Design Worksheet.  Don’t forget to consider the depth –the front-to-back dimension(s). 

MATERIAL & FINISH OF THE CASE

This applies to the ‘box,’ not the frame.  Easiest is a simple painted case.  I can easily send them to you in primer gray, black (very dramatic!) or off-white.  Slightly more complicated is a custom color –but the only way to get to this point is for you to schlep off to the closest Home-Depot and pick the exact color you want and let me know.  I’ll go to my local store and get a can and give you whatever color you want.  There is much to be said for painting the boxes in the same color as your walls.  This makes the cases sort of fade into the background and really high-light your collection. 

Slightly more complicated is for me to send you a primed gray case and you paint it yourself.  A little more expensive option is to select hardwood plywood and stain.  And the stain choice also requires you to schlep off to the home improvement store and pick-out exactly the stain you want. 

MATERIAL & FINISH OF THE FRAME

If you are putting these up in a room that is already finished in dark walnut, you might consider having the frames also in walnut.  (Not to say that a contrasting wood is not just as appealing.)  Most of my work –even the custom work- seems to be oak with a natural (shellac) finish, but Minwax’s Golden Oak seems to have been popular lately. 

PLASTIC OR GLASS:

I prefer plastic for four reasons. 

·        It is opaque to damaging UV light.  (Check out my article on Light and Radiation.)

·        It’s safer, lighter, and doesn’t break into sharp dangerous pieces.

·        It gets there in one piece.

·        Lets be frank here- it’s also cheaper.

But, while we are being frank, it must be admitted that it just doesn’t look as good as glass.  Miracle-Whip don’t taste as good as Mayo –and I don’t care what you say about the calories.  So here is what I say.  Unless you are getting small door frames –say no more then one foot in any dimension, plastic is the way to go.  Or hang the expense, and we will use tempered glass.  And –while still being honest here- I’m going to charge extra for an extra secure –extra well padded -extra pain-in-the-neck-to-build crate to ship it.  And the apes with the trucks, and the dollies and the lift-gates and the conveyor belts and what not, will still break it. Sometimes.